Review: Little Pom's
I’m ruined for all other eggs benny. After the first mouthful of Little Pom’s tricked up version, it’s painfully obvious any standard version of the classic brunch item will now no longer suffice. An absolute firecracker, the Little Pom’s Benny tips its sombrero with a south-of-the-border-infused mash-up of huge, fresh flavours; smoky bacon sits atop some damn fine housemade cheddar buttermilk biscuits, perfectly poached free-range eggs, creamy avocado, charred corn and coriander, while a primo smoked jalapeno lime hollandaise shines things off with some seriously piquant heat.
We’d planned on sharing, but watching the golden yolk streak through the thick, silken hollandaise as I pile a bit of everything onto my fork to get the full effect of this new-found fave, I’m having second thoughts – mercifully the grilled buffalo milk halloumi my companion has ordered looks equally enticing.
It’s definitely a day that calls for craft beer, with spring turning on an early Saturday afternoon that summer would be proud to claim, but as tempting as the line-up of craft beers is (which is severely, given several are practically from the source – neighbouring freehouse Pomeroy’s), my eyes are drawn to another tap – WabiO Kombucha.
The locally-brewed fermented tea tonic/elixir’s liver detoxification qualities make it the perfect primer with a big night planned. It’s similar to less-sweet homemade ginger beer, and makes for a refreshing respite as we eye off the menu. Both the drinks and food menu are a celebration of the region’s finest, where Black Estate’s Circuit wines join ethically-sourced and organic artisan goods. Unsurprisingly, the talented troupe of chefs rocking the open kitchen also make their own nut butters.
Little Pom’s has the casual elegance of a well-loved local. A slick, black tiled bar (overseen by a portrait of the queen and duke from back in the day!) and kitchen joins designer lighting, vases of fresh-cut flowers, funked-up lounge music, and some über hip floral wallpaper, while a huge table at the entrance is perfect for larger groups and family gatherings. A sun-drenched courtyard at the Fitzgerald Street entrance offers al fresco dining with a view. The super friendly staff, led by the quietly charming manager extraordinaire Louie Henderson, are experts at reading their customers, happy to stop and chat when required or leave you to it with their flawless efficiency.
With an exchange pending, I savour the final bites of the benny before tackling another of the venue’s most celebrated offerings. Crispy and chewy, the salty halloumi perfectly marries with the light sweetness of the smashed peas and creamy avocado, while smoked almond pieces provide a thrilling textural contrast along with a lingering smokiness. We bask in the afterglow of the crowd pleasers while sipping a (real!) Hakanoa spiced chai latte. It’s fragrant and moreish, with notes of ginger and cardamom. There’s also time to split a next-level date scone filled with plump fruit and relax, blissfully oblivious to the hustle and bustle of Saturday afternoon on the other side of the glass.
294 Kilmore Street, 03 366 5808